Last Post From Okinawa

I'm at Naha Airport.
Not much to say. Never is when you're at the end of your vacation.
Okinawa was great.
I did not get to see much outside of Naha city, but I would like to return and visit the north side of the island.
I only spent 2 days here. I made it to Shuri-Jo, but was mildly disappointed to learn that almost the entire thing had been destroyed in the Battle of Okinawa and re-built over the past few decades. But then again, maybe I am attaching too much significance to the actual stone or wood, rather than the idea. I have heard that in Japan, many castles, shrines and temples are re-built with new materials every decade or so anyway. It keeps them in pristine condition.
Last night I went to a cool traditional Ryukyuan restaurant where some musicians were performing traditional music. I saw them performing from outside, through the second-story window, and noticed a sign explaining that they were being broadcast live on the radio. I decided to go check it out and got ushered in by one of the wait-staff.
Island music is pretty cool. It's dominated by sanshin (3-stringed guitar) and has drum and hand percussion accompaniment. But the singing is what's really cool. There are these percussive, staccato chants that the female singers stick in between choruses, like "ay, ay, ay." Maybe here at the airport I can find a CD store. I still wanted to buy a DVD copy of Dr. Koto, the TV show whose vacant set still sits on the beach at Yonaguni. I thought that would be good Japanese language practice.
The restaurant last night was a good watering hole. I got a few beers in me and was having a really good time. I would ask the waiter what a certain item was. I could read the name, but had no idea what it was. He would ask the chefs (I was sitting at the counter where I could see them preparing everything) and they would all shake their heads, and then I would say "Tabetemimasu." I will give it a try. They would nod, shout "Hai," and set about cooking it up. I tried pigface, mountain potato tempura, some kind fo raw meat that I have not yet figured out what the name means, and up front I ordered some goya champuru; in case anything after it turned out to be horrible, I would have gotten a good bed of digestible matter in my stomach first. But everythign was delicious and each time I got a new plate, I would signal to the chef that it was "Oishii," which seemed to please him.
Later on, I cruised around Kokusai Doori street, but it's all just junk shops, selling the same corny gifts: trinkets, fruits, T-shirts. It's OK, but it's similar to many other such streets. Not special the way the Yaeyamas were.
I decided that I would try to find a big bottle of Awanami Awamori as a return gift. Every shop on that long street sold awamori, but Awanami is somewhat elusive. It is made in Hateruma, the southern most island in Japan and the normal-sized bottle is said to be extremely rare. I did score some mini bottles for $10 each in Ishigaki. Last night I walked into a gift shop and asked if they had Awanami and the guy directed me to a shop down the street. I've noticed that some awamori brands use a lable with a very similar design, which is sorta amusing. I walked into the shop and found it, and read the sign that said 98000 Yen. About $80..? The shop-lady looked at me and said, "Awanami. 98000 yen."
I said, "Wakarimashita." SHe looked at me in disbelief and started talking to me in Japanese all about how no gaijin ever comes looking for that stuff and how amazed she is that I can speak at all and how jouzu I am. It was fun.
Anyway, the bottle is wrapped very carefully in several layers of underwear and towels in my checked luggage. That was the only way I could get it through security.
I sure hope it survives.
Shit. My plane will board soon.
Goodbye, Okinawa. Thanks to all the kind people.
Hope to come back soon.
-Andre.